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Achilleas G. Samaras and Theophanis V. Karambas
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and ...
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Jun Wang, Bo Yang, Bingchen Liang, Zai-Jin You, Zhenlu Wang and Zhaowei Wang
In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-int...
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Ioannis Kazakis and Theophanis V. Karambas
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source...
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Sara Dionísio António, Jebbe van der Werf, Erik Horstman, Iván Cáceres, José Alsina, Joep van der Zanden and Suzanne Hulscher
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy acc...
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Demetra Cristaudo, Benedict M. Gross and Jack A. Puleo
Military activity has resulted in unexploded ordnance (UXO) existing in the nearshore. Understanding and predicting UXO behavior is important for object identification, and management. Here, two studies (laboratory and fieldwork) have been conducted to o...
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Rong Zhang, Yongping Chen, Peng Yao, Marcel J. F. Stive and Jian Zeng
Coastal permeable groins have been used to protect beaches from erosion for centuries. However, the hydraulic functioning of permeable groins has not been fully understood and their design heavily depends on engineering experiences. In this study, numeri...
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Yingtao Zhou, Xi Feng, Maoyuan Liu and Weiqun Wang
Beach width is an important factor for tourists? comfort, and the backshore is a swash zone where sediment moves quickly. Artificial sandy beaches focus on beach width stability and evolution. This paper is based on an artificial beach project in Haikou ...
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Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers and Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier?Stokes (RANS) equations with a k&#x...
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Piera Fischione, Davide Pasquali, Daniele Celli, Carmine Di Nucci and Marcello Di Risio
The beach drainage can be included among the soft engineering methods aimed to counteract the shoreline retreat related to the sediment redistribution along the beach profile. The idea that the groundwater table plays a role in the mobilization of the se...
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Tristan B. Guest and Alex E. Hay
On mixed sand?gravel beaches, impacts from gravel- and cobble-sized grains?mobilized by the energetic shorebreak?limit the utility of in situ instrumentation for measuring the small-scale response of the beach face on wave period time scales. We present ...
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