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Arnaud Héquette, Adrien Cartier and François G. Schmitt
Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and...
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Florent Birrien and Tom Baldock
An equilibrium beach profile model is developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between the evolving morphology and the hydrodynamics. The model is compared to laboratory beach profiles evolving toward equilibrium con...
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Patrick Bogaert, Anne-Lise Montreuil and Margaret Chen
The ability to accurately predict beach morphodynamics is of primary interest for coastal scientists and managers. With this goal in mind, a stochastic model of a sandy macrotidal barred beach is developed that is based on cross-shore elevation profiles....
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Yvonne Smit, Jasper J. A. Donker and Gerben Ruessink
Understanding the spatiotemporal variability of surface moisture on a beach is a necessity to develop a quantitatively accurate predictive model for aeolian sand transport from the beach into the foredune. Here, we analyze laser-derived surface moisture ...
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Stephanie Contardo, Graham Symonds, Laura E. Segura, Ryan J. Lowe and Jeff E. Hansen
An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind w...
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Matteo Postacchini and Giovanni Ludeno
The skills of the Normalized Scalar Product (NSP) strategy, commonly used to estimate the wave field, as well as bathymetry and sea-surface current, from X-band radar images, are investigated with the aim to better understand coastal inundation during ex...
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